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Fashion education within the walls of Ƶ
12 September

In 2006, a fashion information center was created at the University of Industrial Technology and Design at the Department of History and Theory of Art. Today it houses issues of professional magazines from the 1990s to 2000s, books about the history of costume and fashion. Here students have the opportunity to work with unique literature, write scientific papers and conduct research. About the history of the Center and its unique publications - in our today's material.

History of the pioneer of Soviet fashion

In the Soviet period, Model Houses were located in the capitals of the republics of the USSR. These were the centers of industrial and author fashion of that time. They developed clothes, demonstrated them and formed the aesthetics of the Soviet costume. In our city, such a center - the Leningrad House of Clothing Models (LDMO) - was opened in 1944 after being completely freed from the blockade.

"The city has suffered so much, and the country has suffered so much that a breath of fresh air, beauty was needed, as a reminder to people that very soon the world and life will be beautiful. It was necessary to make some bright colors. Women had to be changed from military uniforms, from pea jackets and quilted jackets and reminded them that they are still women, not just heroines," says Larisa Skalon, a model at the Leningrad Model House.

The Leningrad Model House, a pioneer of the Soviet fashion industry, was one of the largest fashion centers in the Soviet Union. He influenced the development of design culture both inside and outside the city. The entire professional elite - designers, designers, technologists, tailors, fashion models - left LDMO. The Flagship House was first located in Apraksin Lane, then in 1946 it moved to 46 Mayorova Avenue (now Voznesensky Avenue). In December 1959, he finally settled in the Mertens House on 21 Nevsky Prospekt - the center of the cultural life of the city, trade and fashion. Here they developed clothing models for mass production, created patterns and pilot samples, sewed experimental and author's collections, organized shows, field shows at enterprises, clubs and houses of culture, carried out methodological work with light industry enterprises, released specialized magazines and albums with samples. Also, the House carried out individual orders for employees of the state apparatus and famous artists.

A methodological office worked at LDMO, a professional library was formed. There were also art critics on staff who specialized in fashion development issues. They went on business trips, worked with Western magazines that were specially purchased for Soviet specialists, participated in the development of guidelines, wrote articles for domestic fashion magazines. Art critics were at the epicenter of fashion events and were well versed in fashion trends. Soviet fashion designers have always worked in the context of global trends, but they did it in their own way - with strict taste, attention to cut and fit, accuracy of proportions and work with a complex color scheme. Fashion practitioners and art theorists have always held the bar high.

Library moves to Ƶ

In the post-Soviet era, the Leningrad House of Clothing Models stopped working, and domestic manufacturers began to work at joint ventures. Therefore, together with Western partners, a project was implemented to preserve the fashion library, led by art critic LDMO, director of the fashion information center Ƶ Larisa Stepanova. It was she who taught young designers to work with Western professional magazines and "read trends," held seminars for specialists.

The University of Industrial Technology and Design accepted the surviving funds of the House of Models at the Department of History and Theory of Art of the University. At the same time, a fashion information center was created, in which students get acquainted with Western professional magazines of the 1990s-2000s, domestic publications, books on the history of fashion and the practice of creating clothes.

"There is no such specialized fund anywhere" - only in Ƶ

In fact, the Ƶ fashion information center is a large library. It contains both Soviet and foreign magazines preserved from LDMO, and periodical foreign literature issued by subscription for the university itself in the direction of "modern fashion and design." Currently, books on costume and fashion are being acquired.

"We have almost all museum publications on the topic of fashion and costume history. We also receive books as a gift from authors - fashion historians, collectors, researchers. These are very expensive publications, but our students have the opportunity to work with them. There are also scientific journals, fashion journals of different countries and even foreign professional newspapers of past decades. We receive some publications as a gift, there are gifts from our students - this is very nice. All this becomes an excellent base for research, writing educational and scientific works. At one time, I studied fashion periodicals for my dissertation. I can say with confidence that there is no such specialized fund anywhere. In numerous Western libraries you will not find Soviet magazines, but we have them," said Maya Kuznetsova, candidate of art history, associate professor of the Department of History and Theory of Art at Ƶ.

At the center, not only students, but also teachers can study magazines, read books or select articles on their topic. Not everything can be found on the Internet, so print media will help to conduct a deeper study. Also, masters and graduate students of the Department of History and Theory of Art of Ƶ study the problem of preserving the heritage of the Leningrad House of Clothing Models. This is an important topic for St. Petersburg material and artistic culture.