Natalia Mitrofanova, Associate Professor of the Department of History and Theory of Art at St. Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design, studied two waves of textile Egyptomania in the 19th century and the first third of the 20th century. The art critic concluded that the Egyptian orientalism of those periods affected not only the themes, stylistics of images and the color palette of fabrics, but also the techniques of execution, as well as the technological aspect. The results of the study are published in the journal "Bulletin of St. Petersburg University. Art History" (Scopus).
The author of the article notes that the first wave of Egyptomania began in the 19th century. It is associated with the period of mythologization of the image of Napoleon, as well as the opening of the Suez Canal. Then there were shawls and interior fabrics with scenes of the Napoleonic wars and campaigns. Among such plots: the assassination in Cairo in 1800 of General Kleber, who succeeded Napoleon as governor of Egypt.
At the same time, a fabric called "Monuments of Egypt" was being produced. Due to the fact that the real monuments were destroyed or covered with sand, Egyptian researchers had to reconstruct missing or inaccessible parts. It was such restored drawings that were applied to the fabric.
According to the study, the second wave of Egyptomania occurred at the beginning of the 20th century. Flapper dresses of the 1920s and 1930s were mostly sewn using beads and sequins. The fashion for such decor is associated with the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb with its treasures in 1922. The assiut fabric, which originates from the Assiut region of Upper Egypt, has also become fashionable. This transparent, shimmering, like gold, fabric was associated with the legacy of the pharaohs and successfully blended into the Art Deco style.
In addition, at that time, the Association of Textile Color Card Manufacturers released a new map, which included colors with names referring to Ancient Egypt, among them: Egyptian Red, Egyptian Green, Sphinx Brown, Papyrus.
After the roaring twenties, the world will remember Ancient Egypt again in the 1960s and 1970s. The third stage of textile Egyptomania will begin.