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A student of Ƶ has created an Art Nouveau jewelry collection inspired by the Peter the Great Botanical Garden
13 September

Elizaveta Matyushenko, a student of the Department of Technology of Artistic Processing of Materials and Jewelry at St. Petersburg State University of Applied Mathematics, created the Adiantum jewelry collection, inspired by the Peter the Great Botanical Garden in St. Petersburg.

The collection includes a brooch, necklace, earrings and ring made in Art Nouveau style from 750 yellow gold, hot enamel, rubies and diamonds. The student used laser cutting and die casting as a technique.

The central artistic image of the collection is a fern of the genus Adianthum Peruvianum.

"This plant attracted my attention with the grace of its delicate leaves, which form complex feathery structures with smooth curves and radial symmetry. The key idea of the collection was the contrast between the static elegance of the plant and the dynamics of hidden life, metaphorically embodied through the motif of a moth hidden behind the leaves. The moth, as a symbol of transformation and fragility, is contrasted with the stable form of the fern, referring to the cyclical nature. The use of contrasts — red/green, static/movement — enhances the depth of perception. This synthesis of nature and art, symbolism, and the dominance of line over form embody the key principles of the Art Nouveau style," says Elizaveta Matyushenko, a student at St. Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design.

The base of the brooch is made up of stylized ferns with openwork engraving of veins. The leaves are arranged in several tiers, creating the illusion of depth. Behind the top layer of foliage made of gold, a moth is hidden, whose wings are decorated with saw blades and diamonds with a diameter of 2 mm, imitating a scattering of dew.

The main element of the necklace is a modern pattern combining abstract floral motifs. At its heart is a large oval ruby of 15 carats, fixed in a cast with soldered flakes, at the bottom of which is hidden the locking part of fixing the rim on the necklace.

The earrings repeat the curved shape of the young leaves of the adianthum. Smooth S-shaped lines are emphasized by a combination of two materials — gold and transparent hot enamel. The edges of the leaves are decorated with a texture that repeats the texture of the fern itself. The suspended design ensures the movement of the elements when worn, enhancing the resemblance to swaying foliage.

The ring is based on a stylized fern curl framing an oval 1.5 carat ruby, cut Ov-57. The stone symbolizes the "heart" of the plant. Branched veins on the metal surface radiate from the ruby, mimicking the natural growth of the leaf. The reverse side of the ring is decorated with micro-holes that reduce the weight of the product.

The thesis supervisor is Lyubov Zhukova, Director of the Institute of Applied Arts of St. Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design, Head of the Department of Technology of Artistic Processing of Materials and Jewelry.