Scientists of the department of chemical technologies named after prof. A. Kharkharov of St. Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design have developed import-substituting compositions of coloring compositions for the coloring of lightened hair with a wide range of shades from golden yellow to black and practical recommendations for the use of domestic products of the chemical industry as import-substituting cosmetic products. The developed product is now being tested for allergic reactions and will be offered for introduction to one of the largest enterprises in Russia producing professional beauty industry products.
Hair dyeing is carried out at room temperature for an hour, then hair is washed with warm water until foaming stops and is air-dried.
Checking the resistance of the coloring to the soap solution on a scale of standards showed that the change in the original coloring compared to the initial one was 4-5 points out of 5 possible.
Current trends in the development of cosmetics for hair coloring consist in the search for compositions and conditions of user of allergen-free, odorless compositions, providing sufficiently high coloring ability, characterized by brightness, tone saturation, high resistance to wet treatments, friction and light, with relatively low concentration of dye in the hair, without the use of high temperatures and aggressive agents.
“For better penetration and fixation of the dye, obtaining bright and clear shades, the hair was preliminarily bleached with hydrogen peroxide in the presence of stabilizing agents. Structural changes in the process of hair treatment manifest themselves in the reduction of elastic properties. We have determined the optimal concentration of hydrogen peroxide and stabilizing agents in the composition for bleaching, providing a high level of preservation of strength and elastic properties of the hair. The obtained data are consistent with scientific ideas about the effect of oxidants on keratin, with a decrease in scaly, increased ability to swell and interact with dyes," says Ekaterina Roganova, one of the authors of the development, a master's student at the Department of Chemical Technology at Ƶ.
"We also investigated the thickening components in the dyeing composition. The study of hair color intensity showed that the concentration of the dye on the hair reaches a maximum when the dye content is 3% of the substrate mass. On the basis of studies of color intensity and dye strength, cross sections of dyed hair, calculation of dye diffusion coefficients into hair the composition of the dyeing composition was optimized", - comments Tamara Dyankova, professor of the department of chemical technologies of Ƶ.