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"2>@G5AB2> -. !:LO?0@5;;8 ?@54AB02;O5B ?@8<5@ 2>?;>I5=8O AN@@50;8AB8G5A:8E 8459 2 48709=5 >4564K, GB> ?@8@02=8205B 5Q :>ABN<K : 0@B->1J5:B0<. 2.2. ;8O=85 MAB5B8:8 ?>AB<>45@=87<0 =0 48709= :>ABN<0  ?5@8>4 <564C 1965 8 1975 33. 2 70@C156=>9 <>4=>9 8=4CAB@88 ?@>87>H;8 7=0G8B5;L=K5 87<5=5=8O. >O28;8AL =>2K5 <>4=K5 <0@:8, AB8;8ABK-D@8;0=A5@K, <03078=K <>4=>9 >4564K 8 0:A5AAC0@>2. > $@0=F88 <>40 AB0;0 1>;55 45<>:@0B8G=>9 8 4>ABC?=>9.  1973 3. 1K; A>740= A8=48:0B <>4K ?@5B-0-?>@B5 (Syndicated Chamber of Pret-a-porte for Couturies and Creators of Fashion), GB> O2;O;>AL A;54AB285< C25;8G5=8O 2>AB@51>20==>AB8 :>;;5:F89 >4564K 3>B>2>3> ?;0BLO. =4CAB@8O ?@5B-0-?>@B5 1078@>20;0AL =0 8==>20F8>==KE B5E=>;>38OE ?@>872>4AB20 >4564K, :>B>@K5 <>3;8 >15A?5G8BL <>4=>9 >4564>9 1>;LH>5 :>;8G5AB2> ?>B@518B5;59.  MB>B ?5@8>4 ;8=8O :>=F5?BC0;L=>3> 48709=0 @0AH8@O5B AD5@C A2>53> 2;8O=8O 4> >4564K <0AA>2>3> ?@>872>4AB20.  AD5@5 <>4K =0 ?5@2K9 ?;0= 2KE>48B ;8G=>ABL 48709=5@0, GLQ 8=48284C0;L=>5 B2>@G5AB2> <>65B ?>A;C68BL =0G0;>< =>2>3> =0?@02;5=8O <>4K.  1964 3. 0<5@8:0=A:89 48709=5@ C48 5@=@09E (1922  1985) ?@54AB028; :C?0;L=K9 :>ABN< 157 25@E0, B>?;5A  <>=>:8=8. 8709=5@ @5H8;, GB> 2 <8@5, 345 3>A?>4AB2C5B A2>1>40 4CE0 8 65=A:0O M<0=A8?0F8O, E>48BL A >1=06Q==>9 3@C4LN 2?>;=5 5AB5AB25==>. >O2;5=85 :C?0;L=8:0 B>?;5A <>6=> =0720BL 45<>=AB@0F859 =>2>9 :>=F5?F88 >A>7=0=85 B5;0, E0@0:B5@=>9 4;O A2>1>4=>9 <>;>4Q68 1960-E 33.  1960-E 33. AB8;8AB8G5A:85 =0<Q:8 =0 :>A<8G5A:85 ?>;QBK AB0;8 =5>BJ5<;5<>9 G0ABLN <>4K 8 ?@54<5B=>3> D>@<>>1@07>20=8O.  1964 3. D@0=FC7A:89 CBN@L5 =4@5 C@@56 (@. 1923) ?@54AB028; :>;;5:F8N <>;>4Q6=KE :>ABN<>2, 2K?>;=5==CN 2 :>A<8G5A:>< AB8;5, ?>4 =0720=85< >A<8G5A:0O M@0 (Space Age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nwearables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leats Please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andevorst, 1987. = 0=452>@AB, @. 1968 8 $8;8? @8:A, @. 1971) 8 48709=5@ 5@=E0@4 8;;E5;< (@. 1972). 5AL ?@>F5AA A>740=8O :>;;5:F88  >B 5Q 8458 4> ?@575=B0F88  >=8 @0AA<0B@820NB 2 @0:C@A5 83@K, >?@545;Q==>3> @8BC0;0, ?>4G8=Q==>3> 7040==>9 A:2>7=>9 8=B@835. 0?@8<5@, C 4CMB0 $ 0=452>@AB 48709=5@A:CN :>=F5?BC0;L=CN 83@C >?@545;O5B <548F8=A:89 <>B82.  =0G. XXI 2. =0@O4C A O?>=A:8< 8 15;L389A:8< =0?@02;5=8O<8 2 52@>?59A:>9 <>45 ?>O2;ONBAO 40BA:85 1@5=4K :>=F5?BC0;L=>3> :>ABN<0, A>740B5;O<8 :>B>@KE O2;ONBAO 0@10@0 >=468=8 (2 1996 3. >=0 70:>=G8;0 >1CG5=85 2 8=AB8BCB5 48709=0 2 0=88) 8 %5=@8: 81A:>2 (@. 1972). 7<5=5=8O 2 8=4CAB@88 <>4K 0=88 =0G0;8AL 2 2005 3., :>340 2 >?5=3035=5 1K;0 >A=>20=0 AB@C:BC@0, >B25G0NI0O 70 >@30=870F8N =545;8 <>4K 2 >?5=3035=5 (Danish Fashion Institute). 4=>2@5<5==> A =545;O<8 <>4K ?@>E>4OB :@C?=K5 O@<0@:8 <>4=KE B>20@>2. 5KAB02:0 (Copenhagen Unfair) ?@54AB02;O5B A>1>9 0;LB5@=0B82C ACI5AB2CNI8< <>4=K< O@<0@:0< :0: ?@>AB@0=AB2>, >1J548=ONI55 @07;8G=K5 =>=:>=D>@<8ABA:85 >1J5:BK ?@54<5B=>9 :C;LBC@K, 2:;NG0O >4564C, <C7K:C, A>2@5<5==>5 8A:CAAB2>, D>B>3@0D8N 8 2845>. @8<5@>< A;C60B :>ABN<K D8@<K <>4=>9 >4564K 1   3, >A=>20==>3> =0 @C1565 XX-XXI 22. 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