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'0AB> 35@>8 @5:;0<K ?><5I0;8AL 2 D0=B0AB8G5A:>5 ?@>AB@0=AB2> 3@57K. !B0;0 ?>?C;O@=>9 87;N1;5==0O AN@@50;8AB0<8 B5E=8:0 >1<0=:8. "0:8< >1@07><, 2 3;025 @0A:@K205BAO 206=>5 7=0G5=85 A8<C;LB0=87<0 8 AN@@50;87<0 2 @0728B88 B5:AB8;O 8 :>ABN<0 1920-E  1930-E 33. "2>@G5AB2> !. 5;>=5 ?@54AB02;5=> 2 :>=B5:AB5 >1I53> @0728B8O 020=30@4=>3> 8A:CAAB20 0@86A:>9 H:>;K. >:070=0 B@0=AD>@<0F8O 55 >B A8<C;LB0=87<0 : =5>?;0AB8F87<C 8 404087<C. 04087< AB0; 107>9, =0 :>B>@>< @0728;AO AN@@50;87<, >:0702H89 ACI5AB25==>5 2;8O=85 =0 ?;0AB8G5A:CN :C;LBC@C 1930-E 33. 0AA<0B@820NBAO M:A?5@8<5=BK . -@=AB0, !. 0;8, . >:B>, 0= 5O 8 4@. 2 >1;0AB8 ?@>5:B8@>20=8O :>ABN<0 8 @5:;0<K <>4K, 0=0;878@C5BAO B2>@G5AB2> :CBN@L5 -. !:LO?0@5;;8. =0;87 ?@>872545=89 MB8E <0AB5@>2 4>:070; 1;87>ABL 8 2708<>7028A8<>ABL 020=30@4=>3> 8A:CAAB20 0@86A:>9 H:>;K 8 <>4K. "5< A0<K<, AB0=>28BAO 2>7<>6=K< 3>2>@8BL > A8<C;LB0=87<5 8 AN@@50;87<5 :0: > 254CI8E <5B>40E 2 ?@>5:B8@>20=88 B5:AB8;O 8 :>ABN<0 1920-E  1930-E 33. ;020 IV. @B-<>40 0@86A:>9 H:>;K 2 :>=B5:AB5 @0728B8O B5:AB8;O 8 :>ABN<0 2-9 ?>;. XX  =0G. XXI 2. AA;54C5BAO 35=578A EC4>6=8G5A:8E 8459 0@B-<>4K 0@86A:>9 H:>;K 2 ?@>4C:F88 A>2@5<5==KE 48709=5@>2 ?> B5:AB8;N, <>45;L5@>2 8 AB8;8AB>2. #AB0=02;8205BAO 206=>5 7=0G5=85 0@B-<>4K 0@86A:>9 H:>;K 2 @0728B88 A>2@5<5==>9 <0B5@80;L=>9 :C;LBC@K. 4.1. "2>@G5AB2> . ND8 8 !. 5;>=5 2 :>=B5:AB5 ?@>5:B8@>20=8O B5:AB8;O 2-9 ?>;. XX  =0G. XXI 2. =0;878@CNBAO :@0A>G=K5 F25B>G=K5 MA:87K, A>740==K5 . ND8 =0 >A=>25 6C9A:8E >1@07F>2 8 8E >B@065=85 2 B5:AB8;5 ?>A;5 B>@>9 <8@>2>9 2>9=K.  1950-E 33. B5:AB8;L . ND8 24>E=>28; . 59, . #09B, . 8@0@, . >1A, . A>;0. ":0=8 A :@C?=K<8 F25B>G=K<8 @8AC=:0<8 1K;8 2K1@0=K . 0;5=A803>9 8 . 0;L<5=>< 4;O :>;;5:F89 1950-E 33.  1970-E 33. 48709=5@K . 0@;8=3, . !:>BB, $. (C<0E5@ B0:65 >1@0I0;8AL : B:0=O< . ND8 8 0:B82=> 708<AB2>20;8 53> F25B>G=K5 <>B82K.  1980-E  1990-E 33. B2>@G5AB2> <0AB5@0 >:070;> 2;8O=85 =0 @01>BK B0:8E 48709=5@>2 ?> B5:AB8;N, :0: -. !>BBA0AA, ". 8@C0@, . $C4782>, . 4N 0A:L5, !. >;;L5, $. 5915@8. !B8;L ND8  B> 5ABL :@C?=K5 G5@=>-15;K5 8 ?>;8E@><=K5 F25BK, 0 B0:65 01AB@0:B=K5 35><5B@8G5A:85 <>B82K  ?@8ACBAB2C5B 8 2 A>2@5<5==>9 M:;5:B8G=>9 <>45, : ?@8<5@C, 2 :>;;5:F8OE 6. 0;LO=> 4;O Dior (a/ w 1998-1999 33.), .-. >BL5 (s/ s 2008 3.), . 0=3 (f/ w 2008-2009 33.). '5@=>-15;K5 35><5B@8G5A:85 B:0=8 A >?B8G5A:8< MDD5:B><, A>740==K5 <0AB5@>< 2 1919 3., ?>;CG8;8 @0728B85 2 B2>@G5AB25 !. 5;>=5 2B>@>9 ?>;>28=K 1920-E 33. '5@=>-15;K9 B5:AB8;L, @07@01>B0==K9 EC4>6=8F59, 1K; 708<AB2>20= 48709=5@0<8-<8=8<0;8AB0<8 2 1950-5 33. 458 !. 5;>=5 @072820; 2 A2>5< B2>@G5AB25 8725AB=K9 48709=5@ . 8@0@ (A5@8O B5:AB8;59 @C38, A5@548=0 1950-E 33.), 0 B0:65 EC4>6=8F0 . 7>;0 2 A2>8E <=>3>G8A;5==KE B5:AB8;L=KE A5@8OE 1955  1956 33. 4;O :><?0=88 Marimekko.  1960-5 33. : 35><5B@8G5A:8< MA:870< !. 5;>=5 >1@0B8;8AL <>;>4K5 020=30@4=K5 48709=5@K 8 EC4>6=8:8, ?@54AB028B5;8 >?-0@B0 (op-art 8;8 optical-art)  . 09;8, . =CA:L528F, . @C7-857, . @0C=, . "@030@4 8 4@. >;LH>9 8=B5@5A : B2>@G5AB2C !. 5;>=5 ?@>O2;O; 8725AB=K9 B5:AB8;L=K9 48709=5@ . 5=B>=, >48= 87 @>4>=0G0;L=8:>2 >?-0@B>2>3> =0?@02;5=8O 2 B5:AB8;L=>< 8A:CAAB25 1960-E  1970-E 33. = A>740; F5;K9 @O4 B5:AB8;L=KE A5@89 =0 >A=>25 B2>@G5AB20 !. 5;>=5 1920-E 33.: 5:>@ (1969 3.), >=B8=C0 (1979 3.), C: (1979 3.). . C0=B ?@54?>G8B0;0 A>74020BL 0=A0<1;8 2 G5@=>-15;>9 30<<5, 8A?>;L7>2CO B:0=8 G8ABKE O@:8E :>=B@0AB8@CNI8E F25B>2 8, B0:8< >1@07><, 2 1>;LH>9 AB5?5=8 ?>2B>@OO >?KB !. 5;>=5. A:CAAB2> 8 48709=5@A:>5 B2>@G5AB2> EC4>6=8FK =0H;> >B@065=85 2 <8=8<0;8AB8G5A:8E 0=A0<1;OE 1960-E 33. . C@@560, . !5=->@0=0, . 0@45=0. ?KB !. 5;>=5 ?> @07@01>B:5 B5:AB8;O A 01AB@0:B=K<8 35><5B@8G5A:8< @8AC=:0<8 ?5@5=O;8 48709=5@K :@C?=>9 D8=A:>9 :><?0=88 Marimekko. =8 ?@54;030;8 B:0=8 2 AB8;5 >?-0@B A M;5<5=B0<8 A8<C;LB0=87<0 (@07=>F25B=K5 48A:8 :>=B@0AB=KE F25B>2, ?5@5A5:0NI85AO >:@C6=>AB8, 7837038, B@5C3>;L=8:8). "5:AB8;L A @8AC=:0<8, =0?><8=0NI8<8 C7>@K !. 5;>=5, 8A?>;L7>20;8 . C0=B, . !5=->@0=, . C@@56. >40 =0 >?-0@B 25@=C;0AL 2 1990-5 33., 8, :0: A;54AB285, 2=>2L 2>7@>A 8=B5@5A : ?@>872545=8O< !. 5;>=5. CMB . 0A0E8@0 8 8:0 2 A5@548=5 1990-E 33. A>740;8 =5A:>;L:> 0=A0<1;59 A >?B8G5A:8<8 MDD5:B0<8 ?>4 2;8O=85< ?>;>B5= . 070@5;8 8 . 09;8. > 2B>@>9 ?>;>28=5 1990-E 33. : >?-0@BC >1@0I05BAO . 010==, <>45;L5@, 8725AB=K9 A2>59 ;N1>2LN : G8ABK<, 35><5B@8G5A:8< D>@<0<. 545;O 8;0=A:>9 <>4K, ?@>H54H0O 2 O=20@5 2009 3. 8 ?@54AB0282H0O >A5==5-78<=85 <C6A:85 :>;;5:F88 2009-2010 33., ?@>45<>=AB@8@>20;0 2KA>:89 8=B5@5A : >?-0@BC 8 <8=8<0;87<C 2 A@545 A>2@5<5==KE <>45;L5@>2. 5><5B@8G5A:89 @8AC=>: ?@8ACBAB2>20; 2 :>;;5:F88 . 5AB2C4 8 6. @<0=8. ?-0@B AB0; 3;02=>9 B5<>9 :>;;5:F88 <0@:8 Hugo. 45O B:0=8-2K:@>9:8 ?>;CG8;0 =5>6840==>5 @0728B85 2 B2>@G5AB25 O?>=A:>3> <>45;L5@0 . AA5O.  1998 3. >= ?@54;>68; =>20B>@A:CN B5E=>;>38N A>740=8O :>ABN<>2 A-POC (B. 5. a piece of cloth  :CA>: B:0=8), @07@01>B0==CN A>2<5AB=> A $. 05<. 0 >A=>25 :><?LNB5@=>9 ?@>3@0<<K 2O70;L=K5 <0H8=K A>740NB B@C1C  <0B5@8N 157 H2>2, =0 :>B>@CN ;075@>< =0=5A5=K <5AB0 4;O @07@57>2.  7028A8<>AB8 >B 7040==>9 ?@>3@0<<K, @07@57K =0=>AOBAO 2 A>>B25BAB2CNI8E <5AB0E 8, 5A;8 A;54>20BL B>G=K< 8=AB@C:F8O<, B@C1C <>6=> ?@52@0B8BL 2 ?;0BL5, 60:5B, N1:C, A28B5@ 8 4065 >182:C 4;O <515;8. "0:8< >1@07><, . AA59 ?@54;>68; C=825@A0;L=CN B5E=>;>38N, A ?><>ILN :>B>@>9 <>6=> A>74020BL @07=>>1@07=K5 <>45;8 >4564K. !>2@5<5==K5 020=30@4=K5 :>ABN<K, A>740==K5 ?> B5E=>;>388 A-POC, O2;ONBAO =5 B>;L:> ?@54<5B0<8 30@45@>10, => 8 <C759=K<8 M:A?>=0B0<8. 0 ?@8<5@, =5:>B>@K5 87 <>45;59 ?@8>1@5; 8=AB8BCB :>ABN<0 8>B>. 4.2. -:A?5@8<5=BK EC4>6=8:>2 0@86A:>9 H:>;K 2 :>=B5:AB5 A>2@5<5==>3> ?@>5:B8@>20=8O :>ABN<0 1@07K, A>740==K5 . 0:AB>< 4;O CAA:8E A57>=>2, 2 G0AB=>AB8 4;O ?>AB0=>2>: ;5>?0B@0, (0E5@07040, 0@-B8F0, ?>2;8O;8 =0 B2>@G5AB2> A>2@5<5==KE 48709=5@>2.  1976 3. 7=0<5=8BK9 :CBN@L5 . !5= >@0= ?@54AB028; :>;;5:F8N CAA:85 10;5BK/ >?5@K ?0@86A:>9 ?C1;8:5. >45;L5@ A>548=8; 10:AB>2A:89 =58AB>2K9 AB8;L A MB=8G5A:>9 <>4>9 1970-E 33. ! :>=F0 1980-E 33. <>45;L5@ . 0:@C0 ?@82=>A8B 2 A2>8 :>;;5:F88 0@><0B 10:AB>2A:>3> 2>AB>:0. N18B <=>3>A;>9=K5 FK30=A:85 N1:8, ?5AB@K5 60:5BK, 1>30B> @0AH8BK5 ?095B:0<8 8 AB@070<8, <0=B> A <5E>2K< 2>@>B=8:><. 725AB=K9 <>45;L5@ . 45 ;0 5=B0 B0:65 >?8@0;AO =0 MA:87K 8 8;;NAB@0F88 -@B5 ( . "K@B>20), :>340 A>74020; A2>8 O@:85, ?A524> 0780BA:85 :>;;5:F88 2 1990-5 33. "2>@G5AB2> . C0@5, 0 B0:65 <>4=0O 3@0D8:0 -@B5 ( . "K@B>20), >:070;0 1>;LH>5 2;8O=85 =0 :>;;5:F88 6. 0;;LO=>.  1998 3. >= ?@54AB028; 25A5==55-;5B=NN :>;;5:F8N haute-couture, A>740==CN =0 >A=>25 >@85=B0;L=KE 0=A0<1;59 . C0@5. B5G5AB25==K5 <>45;L5@K A 1>;LH8< 2=8<0=85 >B=>AOBAO : =0A;548N . 0:AB0 8 G0AB> 8A?>;L7CNB 53> MA:87K 4;O A>740=8O :>;;5:F89.  1988 3. . 09F52 ?>:070; 2 AB>;8F5 $@0=F88 :>;;5:F8N CAA:85 A57>=K 2 0@865, ?>A2OI5==CN !. O38;52C 8 . 0:ABC. =0 >BG0AB8 =0?><8=0;0 CAA:85 10;5BK/ >?5@K . !5= >@0=0. . .40H:8= =5 @07 ?@87=020;AO 2 ;N128 : CAA:8< A57>=0< 8 ?>A2OB8; . 0:ABC :>;;5:F8N 2000 8 >4=0 =>GL (2001 3.), ?>@060NICN @07=>>1@0785< D0:BC@ 8 1>30BAB2>< >B45;>:.  D52@0;5 2009 3. 2 !0=:B-5B5@1C@35 >= ?@54AB028; :>;;5:F8N >A2OI5=85 -@B5, =025O==CN 25;8:>;5?=K<8, 87OI=K<8, 87KA:0==K<8 >1@070<8 MB>3> 8;;NAB@0B>@0. 1@07K AN@@50;8ABA:>3> 8A:CAAB20 >:070;8 2;8O=85 =0 :>ABN< 2-9 ?>;. XX  =0G. XXI 2. >7459AB285 =0 A>2@5<5==CN fashion-8=4CAB@8N >:070;8 425 AD5@K AN@@50;87<0  87>1@078B5;L=>5 8A:CAAB2> (2 G0AB=>AB8 ?@>872545=8O . 03@8B0, !. 0;8, . "0=38, 0= 5O) 8 <>40 (0=A0<1;8 8 0:A5AAC0@K -. !:LO?0@5;;8).  1983 . !5=->@0= ?@54AB028; >@838=0;L=CN <>45;L 25G5@=53> ?;0BLO ?>4 =0720=85< !0@48=0. 07>20O B:0=L 1K;0 ?>:@KB0 :CA>G:0<8 A5@51@8AB>9 H5;:>2>9 <0B5@88, 8<8B8@>202H59 G5HCN. '5@57 ?OBL ;5B $. 5A06 ?@>4>;68; 845N . !5=->@0=0, A>7402 G5HC9G0BK5 ?>OA 8 AC<:C, C:@0H5==K5 A5@51@8ABK<8 D83C@:0<8 @K1. @>>1@07>< MB8E ?@>872545=89, 2>7<>6=>, AB0;0 7=0<5=8B0O :0@B8=0 . 03@8B0 5A=L ;N128 (1950-1951 33.). @C3>5 ?>;>B=> <0AB5@0, @0A=0O <>45;L (1935 3.), 24>E=>28;> .-. 5@5BBC =0 A>740=85 G5@=KE A0=40;89, =0 =>A:0E :>B>@KE, 2K:@0H5==KE 2 B5;5A=K9 F25B, 1K;8 87>1@065=K ?0;LFK =>3. >AE8I5==K9 @0A=>9 <>45;LN, . 0@45= A>740; ?0@C <C6A:8E A25B;>-:>@8G=52KE BCD;59, 8<8B8@CNI8E ABC?=8 =>3 (1986 3.). >45;L5@K, D>B>3@0DK 8 48709=5@K =5 @07 >1@0I0;8AL 70 24>E=>25=85< : B2>@G5AB2C !. 0;8. 3> 8725AB=>5 ?>;>B=> >AB>O=AB2> ?0<OB8 (1931 3.) >B@065=> 2 B2>@G5AB25 <>45;L5@0 (. 834>@.  1985 3. >=0 A>740;0 (;O?C-G0AK, ?@54AB02;O2HCN A>1>9 15@5B, 25@E :>B>@>3> C:@0H0; 1>;LH>9 <O3:89 D5B@>2K9 F8D5@1;0B A> AB@5;:0<8. >;LH>5 :>;8G5AB2> ?>4@060=89 2 <>45 2K720;0 7=0<5=8B0O D>B>3@0D8O 0= 5O !:@8?:0 -=3@0 (1924 3.). -B>B >1@07 8=B5@?@5B8@>20; . 035@D5;L4, A>7402 2 1983 3. <>45;L ?;0BLO, A>AB>O2H53> 87 <8=8-N1:8 8 ?5;5@8=K. -B8 G0AB8 A>548=O;8AL 7>;>B>9 <0B5@859 2 D>@<5 A:@8?:8.  1985 3. . 0:@C0 B0:65 8A?>;L7>20; >1@07 65=I8=K-A:@8?:8, A>7402 :>:B59;L=>5 ?;0BL5 A G5@=K<8 3@8D0<8 C ;8=88 1545@. @>872545=8O -. !:LO?0@5;;8 G0AB> F8B8@CNBAO A>2@5<5==K<8 <>45;L5@0<8. 5 :>ABN< 8AL<5==K9 AB>; ?>;CG8; >B@065=85 2 B2>@G5AB25 . @8BA0A.  1984 3. >=0 A>740;0 :>:B59;L=>5 ?;0BL5 A GCBL 2K428=CBK<8 :0@<0=0<8-OI8:0<8. $;0:>= 4CE>2 Shocking, ?@84C<0==K9 . $8=8, AB0; >1@07F>< 4;O ?>4@060=8O <=>38E <>45;L5@>2 8 D>B>3@0D>2.  1986 3. :CBN@L5 . 0:@C0, 24>E=>2;5==K9 >1@07>< 65=A:>3> B>@A0 A @>70<8 2<5AB> 3>;>2K, A>740; 25;8:>;5?=CN H;O?C, 8<8B8@CNICN @0A:@KBK9 1CB>= @>7K 8 =0?>;>28=C 70:@K20NICN ;8F>.  1993 3. .-. >BL5 ?@54AB028; 65=A:89 ?0@DN< Jean Paul Gaultier Woman. $;0:>= ?@54AB02;O; A>1>9 C<5=LH5==CN :>?8N B>@A0 ?528FK 04>==K 8 1K; >1;0G5= 2 :@0A=K9 :>@A5B, B0:65 ?@84C<0==K9 .-. >BL5 4;O =55 2 =0G0;5 1990-E 33. 0B5< <>45;L5@ ?@54AB028; <C6A:>9 20@80=B ?>4 =0720=85< Le Male. $;0:>= 1K; 2K?>;=5= 2 D>@<5 <C6A:>3> B>@A0, >1;0G5==>3> 2 B5;L=OH:C. 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